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When Kids Visit

It’s been seven months since I moved to Madrid. While I had a bumpy start, I have loved every minute of it. No regrets. My kids (21 and 20) just spent their spring break with me. My daughter’s teenage year’s weren’t the easiest – because she is just like me. When she walked out of the door at the airport, she burst into tears of joy for seeing me. I cried just as hard.

My kids watching fireworks at Las Falles

We went to Las Falles for two days and had a blast. Then back to Madrid to see how and where Mom lives. Of course I knew they would fall in love with Madrid – which they did. We walked around the city centre the first night and they got to see the beautiful buildings along Gran Via. The next day I took my daughter for a mother-daughter shopping trip. As a 20-year-old she loved Pull & Bear.

My kids in front of the Royal Palace
My kids in front of the Royal Palace

They also got to see the Royal Palace and Cathedral as well as Sol and Callao. My son’s special treat was to visit the Spanish counterpart for his favorite store-Games Workshop. We had dinners, churros and chocolate, and croquettes. Of course we had to see a flamenco show after the Prado and finally shopping for espadrilles at Casa Hernanz.

Casa Hernanz

It was an action packed week and when it finally came to an end I found myself on the couch crying the day they left. Their leaving left a hole in my heart. As a mother, I’m so accustomed to sacrificing so much for my kids. I used to stress out and feel guilty that I was a bad mother. I wasn’t like the others who made homemade Halloween treats and food for bake sales. But I was always there. I volunteered for everything. I was the Bookfair lady and helped with the high school music boosters. I showed up and that was good enough.

I have to admit that while I stayed home with my kids and was a single parent for years, I have had to work through guilt for packing up and moving across the ocean.

On one hand, I feel like it’s my turn but on the other hand, I feel like I abandoned my children. Then I got to thinking – I want my kids to have a big life full of adventure. By following my dreams, I’m leading the way. I have wanted to live in Madrid again after my semester abroad in 1988. That’s a long time to wait for my dream to come true.

I know my kids are proud of me. They tell me all the time. I know that they support me. They tell me all the time. Now it’s a matter of believing them. One is finishing college and getting ready to start his own life and the other one is in the middle of her university degree. They have their own lives to live now.

I guess I just did things backwards. While some parents mourn being empty-nesters, I was the one to fly the coupe. Guilt, I’m realizing, is an option. It’s one I’m choosing to let go.

Getting Around Madrid

Riding public transportation is a great way to get from point A to point B. It’s even better for people watching.

When I first arrived in Madrid, I quickly learned the Metro system. Truth be told, I’m lazy and my feet hurt from walking. I wanted to get where I was going as quickly as possible. Little did I know the commute I was soon facing.

Sadly, the subway in Madrid is always hot no matter what the temperature is outside. It’s even hotter in August. Unbearable so. Trust me, crossing your legs and having them slip apart is not a pleasant feeling. That said, the Metro system is clean, relatively safe, cheap, and efficient-except when there is a strike.

Purchasing a Ticket                                                                                                         Madrid is more-or-less a one price system. I was advised to purchase a 10 trip ticket which runs 12.20 euros. It’s a great deal especially since it includes the bus. Not only does the machine have an English option, but it also accepts an American credit card.

Commuting                                                                                                                             My  job is in the suburbs which means that I have to travel along two Metro lines and then take a light rail. My school is outside the large A zone so I have to pay extra too. It takes almost 1 ½ hours and costs 72 euros a month – which sucks. Big time. Thankfully, I have a Kindle. I use my library card to download books and thanks to my commute, I have read over 36 books in six months.

Strikes                                                                                                                                    The workers of Spain show protest by having strikes. I’m not sure it has any effect except on the people traveling. During one particular strike, I almost left and caught a taxi. The platform was so full that I didn’t think I would have a shot at finding a space on one of the few running trains. I was wrong. Apparently, there is always space on a Metro car no matter how many people are already on board.

No Personal Space                                                                                                            Unlike in the United States, Spaniards don’t seem to recognize the need for personal space. It’s almost comical to see a full train pull up (during rush hour) with the smashed bodies inside and faces pressed against the windows – until you realize that only 3 people got off and there are 50 waiting to get on. My heart sinks, I sigh, and push my way in. I’m pretty sure I have been molested on a few trips. Spaniards are obsessed with perfume so there are a plethora of smells to overstimulate your olfactory senses. I’m grateful for the perfume when I find myself an inch from an armpit. 

Entertainment                                                                                                                           It can be amusing and even a little scary to watch commuters scramble from one stop to catch their connecting train but there is whole other entertainment scene that takes place at the stations and in the train cars themselves. There are live performances happening at many of the larger subway stops. My favorite is a violin player at the Alonso Martinez station. He plays contemporary music and I smile as soon as I hear him in the distance. His rendition of the Star Wars theme never fails to invigorate me. One day I might even drop a few coins in his basket.

During off-peak hours and on the less densely occupied trains you can find everything from people walking down the aisle handing out pieces of people that claim poverty to a Gypsy man who plays a boom box while his adolescent daughter dances awkwardly. There are also karaoke singers that move from car to car singing the same tune. Over and over again. God I wish they would learn a new song. Oh, and the guy who wisely sells chocolate bars or tissues during rush hour. During some trips you may even find Africans selling counterfeit designer products made in China. They display their goods on sheets with ropes that can quickly be snatched in case security spots them. I think I would find it all the more entertaining if I wasn’t trying so hard to read!

Coming up for Air                                                                                                                     I soon realized that by traveling underground, I missed a lot of the city above ground. I was amazed when I first came up for air and saw how close things were. Embarrassingly so. I used to take the Metro from my apartment in the city center and soon saw that it was within walking distance. Unlike some cities, the Metro stops are fairly close together. Madrid is a very walkable city – as long as you don’t mind the hills.

Taking the Bus                                                                                                                    After a few months, I moved from the prostitute street to a quieter neighborhood. It was still in the same zone but further out. A 10 minute walk to the Metro. Like I said, I’m lazy. I soon discovered a bus stop at the bottom of my street that went up Alcala (the longest street in Madrid) and took me right to the city center. Very convenient. The bus is its own beast but very safe. There are no beggars or singers. Just lots and lots of old people. Pure entertainment. Especially when they push you aside as if you’re not even there. There aren’t always seats available so it’s a party if you get one. Even though there is a limit on the number of people allowed on the buses I’ve only seen a driver not stop once. I think passengers would cling to the outside if allowed.

How to Catch a Bus                                                                                                           There are usually a few lines assigned to one stop so it’s important to pay attention to numbers on the front of the bus and the stop. It’s standard to flag the bus you want so that they know that you want to get on. They may not stop otherwise!

Overall, having come from Baltimore where public transportation is pretty weak, I am thrilled with the ease of which I can get around Madrid whether I am walking or riding. I also love the entertainment value!

Turning 50 – in Paris!

I turned 50. In Paris. With my boyfriend. Life doesn’t always turn out the way we plan. Sometimes it’s better. I never imagined getting a divorce, moving to Spain five years later, and falling in love.

My boyfriend and I decided to go Paris for a short budget-friendly weekend to celebrate my milestone birthday. We booked a 6:30 am flight on Saturday. Arriving at 8:30, we took the RER B train into the city. It was very easy to navigate, even with no French speaking abilities. The train was expensive at 10 euros but probably cheaper than a taxi. Forty minutes later, we got off at Chatelet les Halles. It was the most confusing, long, and somewhat sketchy subway station. We followed the exit signs which took us through the shopping mall.

Having arrived a few weeks after the Louvre machete attack, security was very tight – which isn’t a bad thing. Except when you have to open your purse and bags at every venue. The Louvre announced that they were no longer allowing people to bring in luggage. We considered finding storage lockers since our check-in time wasn’t until 3 pm but then decided to show up at the hotel and simply ask if we could store our luggage.

As we were on a budget, I had looked on Rick Steves’ Europe website and downloaded his app. I cannot recommend it more. I listened to his radio shows and Paris recommendations. It really got me in the spirit of the trip and helped me narrow down the top places to visit. Following Rick’s suggestions, I perused the booking sites, then checked the hotel websites to see if they had a better offer. They did. We selected an artsy boutique hotel called Crayon. It was located in the 1st arrondissement (district), five minutes from the Louvre – and very affordable. Plus they agreed to let us store our luggage there.

After dropping our things off, we headed to the Louvre. Even though it was cold and rainy, going to Paris in February was smart because there were no lines. The museum was originally 12th century fortress and later a royal palace in the 1500s. It has undergone many renovations over the years and the ceilings and detailed fireplaces are works of art themselves.

 

We spent five hours moving from room to room. I don’t recommend doing this! I suggest doing some research online first and deciding what highlights you want to see. My boyfriend loved the ancient Egypt room. I preferred the Greek and Roman statues. Winged Victory and Venus de Milo were thrilling but my favorite was Amour and Psyche. I could have left the museum happy after that. But then I would have missed seeing Mona Lisa! It’s worth mentioning that even with the thin crowds, she still had a large audience. And there were at least two security guards and a partition so bring a good telephoto lens!

We stumbled back to the hotel for the evening. Because we were so mind-numbingly done. The Hotel Crayon was charming. Except for the fact that the elevator was broken. And we were on the 6th floor. Which sucked. The room was small but we had everything we needed. The bathroom was modern and ample. With only 3 or 4 rooms per floor, there was no noise – not that we would have heard any as we were pretty much dead to the world.

I had grabbed a sandwich, chips, three drinks, two bananas and a chocolate bar from the local grocery for only 12 euros. Much more reasonable than the restaurant menus we had seen along the way.

Sunday morning we headed toward Notre Dame – which was also very close to the hotel. My boyfriend wanted breakfast so we took a bridge over the Seine and ended up at a corner place overlooking the cathedral. Big mistake. The service was great but it cost us 32 euros for two coffees, two glasses of orange juice, toast, and a small English breakfast. No kidding. The same meal in Madrid would have cost us less than 10 euros. We had broken the cardinal rule of eating on a tourist street. Don’t eat on a tourist street. Ever.

Mass at Notre Dame was beautiful but a little distracting with hundreds of tourists walking up and down the perimeters. After that, we opted to forgo the Orsay and instead walked to the Musee l’ Orangerie. If you are at all interested in Monet or his contemporaries, this is the can’t miss place. We both in loved the museum. The Water Lilies were donated by Monet in hopes that they would give Parisians a respite from their hectic lives. The two oval rooms were very peaceful with benches in the middle for sitting and admiring the works. The place offered weary tourists a respite as well.

After some time gazing at the Water Lilies, we headed downstairs to the rest of the gallery. We found the perfect amount of paintings by Picasso, Renoir, Cezanne and Matisse to name a few. There are only around eight small rooms which make the museum manageable.

After a well-deserved hamburger and steak lunch (36 euros), we headed back to the hotel for a rest. It was my birthday and my boyfriend wanted to take me up the Eiffel Tower.

Refreshed from our siesta, we walked back to the Louvre and caught the 69 bus. I had read that the 42 and the 69 public buses are a great way to see the city on a budget. I would agree. Less than 2 euros versus the over 30 for the tour bus. We found our stop and walked about five minutes to the tower. The night time view was spectacular. Again, a February trip meant that there was no line. We arrived around 9ish and caught the elevator after going through 2 security check points.

The downside of going in February was that the top of the tower was like the tundra. I really thought my phone was going to be ripped out of my hand from a gust of wind. The other side of the tower was calm and a lot warmer. Every hour the lights twinkle and it’s a can’t miss. We were unsure of the last bus so we took a taxi back to the hotel just as the 11 pm twinkle happened.

On Monday morning the sun finally came out so we walked over to St. Germaine and poked around smaller neighborhoods. We also walked along the river and admired the river boats which was charming. I grabbed a box of seven macarons on the way out (which didn’t last the train ride back to the airport) and we were off.

I’ve heard over the years that Parisians can be rude. It definitely wasn’t our experience. We made sure to greet everyone in French and then ask if they spoke English. We had to pantomime with the ones who didn’t but we always figured things out in the end.

It was truly a magical and romantic way to turn 50- and we didn’t break the bank doing it!

Buying Shoes on a Budget in Madrid

I have had my own car since I was 16 years-old. Like many suburbanites, I drove everywhere. While I enjoyed the freedom of having a car at my disposal, I never enjoyed the hassles of parking or sitting in rush hour traffic. The only time I ever really used public transportation was to go to a ball game in the city, visit downtown Washington, D.C., or New York City. Giving up my car to move to Spain was bittersweet. At first, I walked everywhere around the city trying to get to know Madrid. Continue reading Buying Shoes on a Budget in Madrid

Home Sweet Home

I knew that looking for an apartment in a foreign country would be a challenge but I think I was naive as to how hard it would actually be. The language barrier was the first obstacle. The second was my lack of knowledge about the city and the most efficient route to my job in the suburbs. Add the overwhelming heat and the fact that I was competing with thousands of other teachers and students, it felt nearly impossible.

Continue reading Home Sweet Home

The Big Move

You’re moving where?

Many people ask what gave me the idea to move to Madrid. I had spent a semester during my junior year in college at St. Louis University in Madrid. It was a wild time. The post-Franco time known as La Movida was trailing off but the city was still vibrant and rebounding from life under Franco. And it was the 80s. I was 20 years-old and a little too much of a party girl for my own good. I can honestly say that I have snippets of memories – and most of them involve the discos. Continue reading The Big Move

Life as an expat in Madrid, Spain